I used to think geography was one of my better subjects but, I am ashamed to say, before planning our trip to Guatemala the only Antigua I had heard of was an island in the Caribbean. However I now know there is another Antigua – a beautiful Guatemalan city where we are fortunate enough to be living while we are volunteering at “The School of Hope”, Jocotenango. We are so lucky to be renting a house in such a vibrant and upbeat city which is in stark contrast to the many areas of extreme poverty, just a few miles away, where we are working and where the majority of our students live.
Antigua is often referred to as the ‘jewel in Central America’s crown’ and also its’ prettiest city. It is most certainly the most visited city in Central America but this shouldn’t put people off – it doesn’t seem overrun with tourists and back packers and retains a truly Guatemalan vibe.
The city has a rich history – it was the old capital of Guatemala (before Guatemala City) and was once the most important seat of Spanish colonial government between Mexico City and Lima, Peru. It was granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1979, and is a cultural mecca for architecture lovers, foodies, coffee connoisseurs and anyone after a good time – so it is perfect for the 3 of us.
The cobbled streets are lined with brightly coloured colonial buildings, there is a busy central park, 16th-century ruins appear to pop up from nowhere and you are always within sight of one of the three majestic volcanoes that surround Antigua.
The city itself is very easy to navigate and works on a ‘grid’ system. Surprisingly for me I have taken a back seat on the navigating front – I am usually the one with a ‘Rough Guide’ in hand trying to find the coolest bars/restaurants/hotels/shops/sites and making sure we don’t get lost. However Jan and Karen have taken the helm and familiarised themselves very quickly with the Avenida’s (running North to South) and Calle’s (running East to West) so for once in my life, I am a few paces behind, letting them lead the way and, I should point out, we haven’t really been lost yet. Antigua is a small city so you can easily cover it on foot – providing you are not wearing flip flops or heels (tricky for me I know).
If you don’t want to walk there are several other options for getting about the city and the surrounding areas. There are plenty of Uber’s and they are so cheap. We have been splashing out and getting one to school each morning and it costs less than 50 pence each for a 3 mile journey. Tuk Tuk’s are another form of transport and although they look a little more ramshackle than those I have used in South East Asia they are a quick, cheap, albeit bumpy way of getting from A to B. Then there are the ‘Chicken Buses’ which are retired yellow school buses from the United States. On arrival in Guatemala these buses are repaired, in a somewhat rudimentary fashion, and the yellow paint is replaced by crazy, colourful designs. They barely stop for you to get on and once aboard you are almost flung into your seat as the bus careers around a corner billowing black smoke. The term ‘Chicken Bus’ derives from the fact that passengers would often transport live animals on them however we have yet to see any form of poultry on board. This is by far the cheapest mode of transport and our journey home from school costs the equivalent of 10 pence.
As well as being famous for its colonial ambiance, Antigua is famed for the three volcanoes in its vicinity. In fact, we are lucky enough to see one of them from our balcony. These volcanoes Fuego, Acatenango and Agua provide Antigua with a spectacular panorama – particularly the Fuego volcano which is constantly emitting a spiral of white smoke. There is another volcano – Pacaya – which is over an hours drive away from the city and Karen and Jan plan to climb that next weekend once the others arrive. Unfortunately my dodgy knees won’t make it and I will no doubt be jealous when they come back with tales of camping under the stars and toasting marshmallows over the lava.
Antigua is full of enticing local shopping, from high end Guatemalan designer stores to local artists crafts shops; to the Mercado de Artesanías, brimming with colourful textiles, woven purses/handbags, masks and jewellery; or Mercado de Carmen, which sits next to the ruins of an old church and sells pottery, blankets and jade at excellent value, particularly if you are good at bartering. Even those of us who cannot be classed as shopaholics have been inspired to make a couple of purchases. There is also the Mercado, a fruit, vegetable, fish, meat and everything-you-could-possibly-need market. It is a veritable maze partly indoors, partly outdoors and we always seem to get lost in the winding walkways, disagreeing on which way to turn next.
The thing that has probably surprised us the most about Antigua is the amount of incredible bars and restaurants. We have eaten a lot of delicious Guatemalan food but also indulged in Mexican, Italian and French meals – all home cooked, all in beautiful surroundings. Last weekend we splashed out and had Sunday brunch and cocktails in Meson Panza Verde a luxury hotel in an old colonial mansion. There are several restaurants set in the hills above Antigua most of which provide a shuttle service in an air conditioned mini bus. Last weekend we went to Cerro San Cristobal – an organic farm and restaurant located in San Cristobal El Alto with stunning views of the volcanoes and down to Antigua. Apart from the ubiquitous Burger King, Domino’s and Subway there are thankfully no other chain restaurants to be found and even these 3 ever present outlets are designed in such a way that they blend in with the local architecture – no ‘in your face’ neon lighting or advertising boards.
Then there are the bars … so many to get round and so little time! In one of our more sensible moments we decided to restrict ourselves to one night out in the week but then we do go a little crazy on Friday and Saturday nights (I know most of you reading this back at home will find that difficult to believe). It is hard not to be overwhelmed by the amount of cool places to drink – from rooftop bars with stunning views of the city to whisky dens to wine bars where every glass of wine you buy is cheaper than the last. Every time we try a new place we claim it as our favourite but I have picked 3 that particularly stick in our minds. Cafe No Se, renowned as the first mezcal bar outside of Mexico, a shadowy, candlelit bar that plays live music and is perfect for a bit of surreptitious people-watching. The Antiguan Brewing Company is where you can drink a couple of locally brewed craft beers on the terrace then wander downstairs, through a secret door, to an amazing cocktail bar where the equally amazing bartenders create your own personalised cocktail. Then there is the elegant Almacen Troccoli which has a classy Italian ambience where you can sip wine at the beautiful 100 year old bar or at a window seat watching the world go by. All different but all with that ‘special something’ and, who knows, it is Saturday today and with more bars to seek out we are sure to find yet another favourite.
Apart from working, shopping, eating and drinking what else is there to do in Antigua? Well, as you would expect, Jan joined a ‘full on’ gym within hours of arrival and has been spinning, circuiting and working out. However, so as not to be put to shame, Karen and I have been going to a yoga/dance studio called Beat where we have attended classes in yoga and yoga dance (don’t ask). It is so friendly, the classes are all held in English and everyone treats us as though we are their life long friends. For that supreme chill out experience we go to Blu an urban oasis in the centre of the town with a pool, sun-beds and, of course, cocktails. What we haven’t done, but is very popular here, is attend a salsa class but judging by Jan’s reaction when Karen and I showed her some of our yoga dance moves we will probably give that one a miss. Antigua is also one of the most popular places in the world to study Spanish due to affordable prices and the easy local accent. There are Spanish Language Schools throughout the city – but we are managing to survive with ‘Google Translate’ and as long as we can ask for “tres cervezas por favor” we are happy.
So that is a whistle stop tour of Antigua, an atmospheric city that has surprised us all with its incredible buildings and vistas, its buzzing nightlife and its wealth of culture. If it isn’t already on your bucket list then add it now and while you are here why not do a spot of volunteering at ‘The School of Hope’ – you won’t regret it, we certainly haven’t.
Guatemala 2020 